Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to discover these tales and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
